August 9, 2008

Day 2

After scoring a nice campsite at Many Glacier campground we took a short drive to the historic Many Glacier Hotel. On the hillside we saw one grizzly and one black bear. This photo is the black bear. 

Later that night we had a terrible storm with thunder, lightning, and hail the size of garbonzo beans. Our campsite flooded and we were so glad to be in a camper. 

Yesterday we drove 13 hours from Portland, camped at Fish Creek on the west side of the park. A three hour drive early in the morning got us to our final destination--Many Glacier campground. It's a beautiful valley and we have so much hiking ahead of us. Let's get going!

August 10, 2008

Day 3 

We hit the trail at 9am with partly cloudy skies, warm sun, and a cool, brisk breeze.

About a mile into our hike the group in front of us pointed to a large bull moose on the hillside. Not more than 10 yds off the path the moose was nibbling leaves seemingly tolerant of the humans staring, whispering, and pointing. He was impressive with his velvet covered rack of antlers.

Just ahead a ranger was observing the moose with a group of hikers. Two agitated and panicked women arrived announcing they had just seen two grizzlies and claimed the bears followed them on the trail. The ranger calmly took information. The women continued their quest to leave the trail for the day.

Not far ahead the ranger spotted the bears. She directed us to get off the path and up onto the hillside since the bears were using the path. Meanwhile, two hikers informed her the bears abruptly left the trail and were heading up the hillside just behind us. I shot a bit of video as the bears passed through the trees about 20 yds behind us. Jodi took the photo I've posted in this blog.

Just ahead I spotted two grizzly tracks in the soft mud on the trail.

We continued on ahead of the ranger and her group. We overheard news of another sighting of two grizzlies, apparently two different grizzlies, based on descriptions. We did a regular 'hey bear' to alert the bears. Jodi sang silly songs.

Majestic scenery and abundant wildflowers were the highlight for the rest of our trek to Iceberg Lake. We had lunch at the lake. Blustery and quite chilly, the wind raced through the cirque.

Two grizzlies were observed high on a hillside as we made our way back to the trailhead. The mother was dark with the classic hump at her shoulders. Her subadult youngster was very blond and nearly her size.

Total miles - 9

August 11, 2008

Day 4 

A blustery, chilly wind shook our camper all night and into the morning.

We started our long hike to Grinnell Glacier at 9am. The wind roared through the woods. Josephine Lake was aqua blue with whitecaps dotting the surface.

A regular 'hey bear' was yelled to alert any bears.

We met Dawn, a solo hiker, and she joined us. Chatty and interesting, she made for some jovial company as we made our way along the lake through the densely lined trail.

Thick, gray, rainless clouds hovered over the tall peaks ahead of us.

We ascended gradually and eventually got a glimpse of green blue Grinnell Lake far below. Brief and taunting breaks in the clouds created the perfect glacial lake coloring. In a blink it was gone.

Threads of waterfalls plunged from the steep cliffs next to us. One waterfall required us to walk through it. Some opted to go ahead but that was more work.

Bighorn sheep far below us were grazing. Eventually they took a rest from their grazing. I counted seven.

Grinnell Glacier was different than what I expected. To the left the glacier fell into the small lake dotted with pools of meltwater. There was a biting chill in the wind. I was glad to have my parka to keep me warm while we ate lunch at the glacier. 

Just before our steep but short ascent to the glacier viewpoint a bighorn sheep leapt from the hillside behind Jodi. Then two more and two more. The bighorns walked single file along a ridge across from us, a perfect backdrop for some photos and video.

During our return to the trailhead we looked up to see a bighorn sheep looking over the bluff above us, curiously watching us pass below. Another very nice photo opportunity.

Total miles - 11

 

August 13, 2008

Day 6 

Just minutes after starting the Garden Wall/Highline Trail we saw five mountain goats in the valley below. Not much further along and there were 20 bighorn sheep.

The view to our left was grand and unending. The rock wall on our right was covered with abundant wildflowers. The safety cable was covered inside a garden hose. What a great idea, I thought.

A lone mountain goat was laying comfortably on a small rock ledge at the edge of the trail. He appeared to be 'people watching', seemingly unfazed by the many passing hikers taking a photo and just hanging around to get a good look at him. His eyelids hung low as if he was hoping to slumber there for a bit.

A small family of mountain goats blocked the trail. To pass the time we took some photos and video. Meanwhile, the goats weren't budging.

Just after getting past the goats we saw a bighorn sheep coming up the trail toward us. This was good video as Jodi's at the edge of the path making room for a smooth passing. The sheep headed up the slope beside us instead. Watch out! Here comes a young bighorn right behind. It followed the larger sheep onto the slope. More good pics and video there!

An open, sloped meadow provided a panoramic view. Small snowfields covered the trail. A hard right traversed us behind the ridge. We took a break here for a snack and spent time watching several mountain goats.

They began high on the rocky ridge, passed by our trail, and hung out on the snow. They romped and jostled in the snow.

We continued on but not before we spotted a lone mountain goat coming toward us on the trail ahead. Allowing him plenty of space we waited while he left the trail, crossed the snowfield, and joined the others. While he passed, the snowcapped peaks behind him made a splendid backdrop for a special photo.

We hiked for miles without seeing wildlife. Then, at about 1.5 miles from the chalet (our lunch spot) we watched a grizzly in a berry patch in the valley very far below us. 

Lunch at the chalet was brief as we made every effort to avoid being lunch for the mosquitoes. By now we had hiked 7.6 miles and 4 miles to go, all downhill. Our descent to the end of the trail was prime grizzly habitat. Jodi sang silly songs and shouted "hey bear" frequently. When she ran out of songs I took over and shouted to alert any bears in the area.

This section of the trail went through a large burn area from 2003. It was gorgeous with the green understory and sprinkles of color from wildflowers.

My toes and knees had had enough of constant downhill. The end of the trail was a welcome sight. We had logged 11.6 miles of gorgeous terrain.

The shuttle to our car was taking a long time so Jodi asked for a ride from a young Calif couple who generously and kindly obliged.

We had dinner and watched some Olympics at St Mary Lodge. Driving the road to our campground was offering golden evening light on the peaks lining Lake Sherburne. I hopped out to take a photo and heard loons! Sure enough, my binoculars confirmed five loons in the middle of the lake. Wow, the wildlife sightings today were effortless!

Eager for a shower I was gathering my things when Jodi spotted five pugs being walked past our camper. Two of the pugs were 8 wk old puppies. Way too cute to describe they provided a much needed pug fix for Jodi!

Total miles - 11.6

August 14, 2008

Day 7

Weary muscles suggested we take a day off from hiking. The hotspot on my left big toe was now a large blister...ouch! It's time for new hiking socks, I've worn them out it seems.

We made a visit to the pug puppies before they headed home later today. You can never get too many kisses from a pug puppy, that's for sure!

We lunched at the Swiftcurrent Inn and made some calls home to check in. Jodi took a nap, I read under the awning. Beautiful weather for a day at camp.

August 15, 2008

DAY 8

We got a late start to our hike. Jodi woke with a headache.

Gunsight Pass to Florence Falls was the trail of choice today. Lush vegetation lined the path, prime grizzly habitat. We called out to the bears frequently.

We didn't see any other hikers for about 3 miles. Passing our first pair of hikers we learned there were moose in the marshy area that morning. So we watched closely as we hiked through that area...no moose, shucks!

We came upon a huge bear scat in the middle of the path. Wow, that's a big bear, wherever it is!!

It's unsettling to hike in bear country, having to be so alert and aware all the time. I found myself scanning the vegetation for movement rather than enjoying the numerous butterflies flitting from flower to flower and chasing each other. 

Tenacious vegetation had overgrown the path to Florence Falls as high as our chest. We checked carefully for ticks later on. All clear...phew. The falls were wide and ribbonlike, a good lunch spot.

There was a moose feeding in the thick vegetation across the river. This may have been one of the three seen earlier in the day, who knows.

Fatigue set in for me. Our hikes this week have been 9 miles, 11 miles, 11.6 miles, and 9.2 miles. I struggled the last two miles to the trailhead. I was too tired to be scared if a bear was on the path. My body was worn out, for sure.

We stopped to let a pair of hikers pass. We chatted briefly with them. They hadn't seen the moose. I just wanted to be done. I looked down and saw a caterpillar on a leaf, symbolic of my slow and tedious ascent to the end of the trail. Baby steps were too much, an inch at a time got me there.

Jodi regularly called out to alert any bears, rounded a corner and there was a deer feeding on the vegetation at the edge of the trail. A deer is much easier to pass than a bear. Undaunted by our presence she moved and began feeding from another spot so we could pass.

Total miles - 9.2

August 22, 2008

Hiked the Mt Aeneas trail (say 'uh-knee-us') in the Jewel Basin about 45 minutes from Flathead Lake Lodge. The trail went up, up, up for miles. The view was panoramic. We reached the top and took a photo on self timer. Just as we crested to begin the walk down a mountain goat and her kid ambled up the trail toward us. She was timid and wary. We moved right so she could have the trail.

It was toe jamming steep on the way down. Momma goat watched us for many minutes from above.

The trail skirted the lake. We stopped to chat with hikers at the lake's edge, locals from Kalispell. We continued on while following the locals. An old man in their group realized we were on the wrong path. We backtracked. Poorly signed junctions would have been a problem if not for the helpful directions from the old man.

Total miles - 6

FORLORN

Staring at Jojo

For real, that's what they're doing!

Just So Cute

Soccer anyone?

Doggie Yoga